Densmore Reassembly

I have gotten the frame back from the blaster.

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I then painted the frame with several coats of primer and then painted it with a gloss lacquer.

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I then reassembled some of the typewriter. Some of the nickeled parts I swapped with the Densmore no 2 that I have. The nickel on that machine was better then the nickel on this one.

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I also derusted the carriage parts with Evaporust. They look better but not as good as having new nickel. A fellow collector should be doing it for me.

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Densmore Reassembly

Densmore part 2

We left off with this

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Remove the setscrew from this hole. Pull the crank off.

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Unscrew the shaft from inside the hole where the winder went.

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Remove shaft and ribbon spool. Repeat for other side.

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Undo the big screw below the shift lock on the ribbon reverse rod.

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Undo the setscrew on the knob mounted to the ribbon reverse rod. Pull the knob off. Take the screw holding the triangle shaped piece off too. Remove the triangle piece.

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You can now remove the rod.

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Loosen the nut then remove both nut and screw.

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Remove the ribbon oscillator.

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Hold on to the rectangular nut and remove the screw holding the escapement link to the U bar.

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Remove the small setscrew mounted to the escapement pivot point. Disconnect the spring from the escapement.

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Loosen this screw. and slide the escapement adjuster over to the right.Pull the escapement out.

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On the vertical part with 2 holes is 3 parts held in by a big screw. Remove the big screw and both parts. Sorry but I forgot to take a picture of this part.

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This part comes off first

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then these 2 parts. The small screw holds them together.

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Remove this part and if you have not already the spring that it connects too. It mounts here

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Next unmount the rear carriage bearing beside it.

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Take off the mainspring ratchet release.

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Take out the screw on either side of the pivot point of the U bar.

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Remove the U bar.

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Take out this screw. It connects to the line lock (I think thats what it is) I think there is also a screw on the other side.

IMG_0753Unscrew the setscrew on the nut on both sides holding in the keylever comb. Then undo the screws from the bottom. You should be able to remove the keylever comb.

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Take out the bigger screw. Its for the key comb. (you can also remove the other screw but mine is frozen in place)

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These are the parts that need removed.

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You should now be able to remove the key comb.

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At this point you can finally remove the line lock key. (some machines do not have a lock key).

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Remove the ribbon advance levers from both sides.

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Remove the screw holding in this spring. It goes here.

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Undo this nut on the shift lock.

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Pull out the shift lock form the other side. Warning there is a spring inside the shift lock mechanism.

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Here is how it goes.

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At this point you can now remove all the typebars and the alignment plate. You are then done. The top deck can come off too but the screws are rusted solid on mine. Right now most of the parts I removed are soaking in Evaporust in preparation for plating or paint.

I plan to have the frame bead blasted at some point. I may have to wait for warm weather first though. Then I can paint the frame.

Densmore part 2

Densmore Disassembly part 1

I bought a Densmore 1 at Herman’s from Greg Fudacz.

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This typewriter came to me in a nonfunctional state with several frozen parts. I tried to get it working at Herman’s to no avail. When I got back I got to work getting it working. I had to take the entire escapement off of a parts machine to replace the one it came with. The part had been frozen for so long in such a way that a spring had become weak that did not allow it to function properly. Anyway I was able to get the machine to work somewhat. After playing with it for awhile I decided to take it apart and begin restoring it. Thus I present the:

Densmore Disassembly guide. Part 1

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The first thing you want to do is remove this screw and the corresponding one on the other side of the typewriter. (screw is removed in photo) This holds on the rear key comb.

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Once that is removed we can start removing the springs from the back panel.

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All of these must come off of this part. I was able to pop them off with a screwdriver. Once that was done remover the back panel with its 6 screws and set it aside. Place the screws in a baggie or screw them back onto the frame.

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I took a good photo of the keyboard for reference. You need to know how to put it back together. They key are indeed whiter in this photo then in the photo at the top of this page. I used a magic eraser to whiten them. The ;/: key is missing though on my machine. I will replace it later.

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Once all the springs and the back panel are off it should look like this.

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Here we have one of the keylevers taken out of the machine masked off for painting. To remove a keylever from the machine unhook the typebar hanger from the keylever with a small screwdriver. They are held on with clasps that can be popped off. then take the back of the lever from the long rod in the back of the machine. You should then be able to lift the lever out of the machine from the bottom pulling forward and out, making sure to clear the universal bar. Repeat for all letter keys and the shift key. The shift key has a linkage riveted to it. You unhook the shift spring and take the linkage off of the carriage rail. IMG_0711

In with the keys is the space bar. It has nothing attached to it but you may have to fiddle with it to get it out. (the actual wood space bar is removed in the photo).

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The machine should look like this at this point.

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Unscrew the screw holding this pin in on the side of the machine. (the screw goes in the small hole above the ribbon crank) Take a screwdriver and tap it out if need be. Repeat for the other side. IMG_0714

Wind down the mainspring. Remove this screw to allow the rear carriage rail to be removed. Pull it off to the side where you removed the screw. The carriage frame that is mounted to it will then lift off. You may have to press down on the U bar to let it clear the escapement. Disconnect the drawband.

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The machine should look like this at this point.

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Remove the 2 plates on the top of the machine. Again make sure to put the screws somewhere where they will not get lost.IMG_0718

Take off the bell/mainspring assembly. There is a screw on the frame near the mainspring wind down ratchet that allows it to pull right off. Make sure to disconnect the small chain from the assembly. It attaches to the ribbon oscillator.IMG_0719

The machine without it on.

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After all the steps have been followed this should be the result. More in the next installment. The Crown Prince Of Corrosion is on its way to becoming new again.

Densmore Disassembly part 1

One week to go: Herman’s Update.

Its officially one week away from Herman’s. That means I am making the final preparations¬† typewriter wise. The final list of machines leaving the collection is below.

  1. 1930 LC Smith 8
  2. 1961 Olympia SG1
  3. 1979 Montgomery Wards Escort 550
  4. 1897 Remington Standard No. 6
  5. 1933 Royal 10
  6. 1939 Mercedes Prima

The following machines are coming back with me.

  1. 1894 Densmore 1
  2. 189x Densmore 2 (parts machine)
  3. 1903 New Century Caligraph no. 5
  4. 1905 Smith Premier No. 5
  5. Smith Premier No. 10
  6. Remington Smith Premier No. 10
  7. Corona 3
  8. Smith Premier 2 (parts machine, may only take what I need)
  9. Remington 10 (possibly)

 

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New Century Caligraph No. 5.

I have also ordered some wide ribbons for the SP2, SP5, Densmore 1, Remington 7. They arrived today. I will be taking the wide ribbon along as well.

Lastly I have a message for Richard Polt

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There will be 2 categories in the typing contest at Herman’s. Modern machines and antiques. I will be in the antique category. I will be using either the SP5, Caligraph 5 or Densmore 1.

One week to go: Herman’s Update.

More Repairs and Smith Premier 2 update.

I got more typewriters to repair when I brought back the last batch.

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First up is this 1953 Royal HH SN# HHE4995619. It needed a ribbon and some work to the Magic Margin system.

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The other machine in for repairs is this Royal KMM from 1942 SN#KMM12-2934745

It has a keyboard with math symbols.

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I decided to repaint the top deck of the Smith Premier 2. It had about 25-30% of the paint flaking off. I have repainted it with some gloss black lacquer. I also redid the pinstripes.

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It is not perfect as I did not remove all of the old paint prior to doing this and the pinstripes could be better. I like it for the time being. I plan to have a lot of things beadblasted (for the Densmore) in the near future so I may redo it at that point.

 

More Repairs and Smith Premier 2 update.